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Dante's Taco
10-02-2009, 07:07 PM
So I'll be replacing my plugs this weekend. Picked up 6 x Denso K20HR-U11
(Part # 90919-01235)

I've been looking for the torq specs on them - at this site (http://www.nology.com/torque.html?PHPSESSID=1725228f00a828b937cdcfeaf767 d182), I found this recommended for 14 mm plugs in aluminium blocks: 18-22 lb. ft.

Does that sound about right?

Do you guys/gals use anti-seize? (any particular brand?)

How about silicone insulator grease inside the spark-plug boot (actually, it would be the the coil-pack since our trucks don't have boots per se)

Thanks for advice

canadian bum
10-02-2009, 08:04 PM
Only thing I could find in my manual is 7.4 ft-lbs for the coil pack retaining bolts. I didn't use anti sieze when i did mine. You have to pull half the intake off to get to the one side. You could use dielectric grease if you want. Nothing on the spark plugs I just tighten them to snug but I turn enough bolts to have a feel for how far to go.

Dante's Taco
10-03-2009, 12:23 AM
OK thanks. I'll be real carefull to hand-start them - I've read about some people stripping threads. That would suck... Looks like Driver side will be the more crowded to work on. Passenger side looks dead easy.

S/C '03 taco
10-03-2009, 06:03 PM
actually you should use anti-aieze oon the threads of your plugs, not a lot just a little dab to prevent oxidization in your head from heat...i work for toyota as a tech and have never seen another tech not use anti-sieze when installing new plugs,as for torque the proper spec is when you get reesistence on the plug go 90 degrees farther on your turn and your good but be carefull not to cross thread your plug when going in at first always do this by hand with a proper spark plug socket and an extension...if you have any other questions i would be glad to help out

Dante's Taco
10-03-2009, 10:53 PM
Thanks - I actually did pick up some Permatex Copper anti-seize compound this afternoon. I now have enough for the entire club for the next 5 years....

I did find a torq spec - 15 ft/lbs - posted on another site. But since there were so many conflicting opinions out there about adjusting the torq depending on if use anti-seize, extensions, etc I was just going to go to finger tight then 1/4 turn more. Same as you said, so thanks for confirming that.

I do have a plug socket I believe - it has the foam inside to hold the plug straight.

I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Weather will suck for this, but oh well.

Doc McCoy
10-04-2009, 12:22 PM
actually you should use anti-aieze oon the threads of your plugs, not a lot just a little dab to prevent oxidization in your head from heat...i work for toyota as a tech and have never seen another tech not use anti-sieze when installing new plugs,as for torque the proper spec is when you get reesistence on the plug go 90 degrees farther on your turn and your good but be carefull not to cross thread your plug when going in at first always do this by hand with a proper spark plug socket and an extension...if you have any other questions i would be glad to help out

Good tips Chris ... now get off the computer and finish my truck damn it!

Andyl
10-04-2009, 01:44 PM
Wow... Seriously? this much thought into plug replacement? :)

But I do disagree - proper sparkplug wrench etc - is for final torquing only (too much slop - too easy to accidently crossthread). A 6" piece of 1/2" vacuum line is for inserting plugs. slide the plug into the end, turn by hand - if the plug slips - you're crossthreading, start again.

snug down to the crush ring, then a 3/8 turn (roughly - average on my 22re - you'll know when it's tight, you pretty much come to a dead stop).

freeze
10-04-2009, 07:15 PM
yeah totally serious issue cause I've cross threaded a plug in my day and had to get a new head as we weren't able to rethread.

Great tips there Chris!

874runnersr5
10-04-2009, 09:11 PM
yeah totally serious issue cause I've cross threaded a plug in my day and had to get a new head as we weren't able to rethread.

Great tips there Chris!

dude that mustve sucked!

Dante's Taco
10-04-2009, 10:13 PM
Yeah, I did put some thought into it:| - as I'm not that experienced with wrenching yet, and this one can go south real fast if your not careful, from what I read. Before this, all I'd done was oil & diff fluid changes. (& the breather mod)

I finished it in 2h 20 min (I know, you all could do it faster, but I stopped to take pics!)

So... for those who care (or haven't done it yet), here's how it was done. I didn't use a piece of tubing (great idea tho) but I only lightly hand tightened each plug, before tightening (with thumb & index finger, so doubt you could cross-thread like that) - see pic. If you know all about this, stop reading now!

Here's what started with:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1046.jpg

Started with passenger-side plugs first (they're easier to get to)

My son takes off air element:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1047.jpg

The air element assembly:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1060.jpg

Remove wiring plug to coil pack (gently lift tab with flat-head screwdriver):
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1049.jpg

Then loosen coil bolt (NOT the lower bolt beside coils):
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1048.jpg

Son takes out a coil pack!:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1050.jpg

So we need to get down this hole....
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1054.jpg

I taped my spark-plug socket to the extension so it wouldn't get stuck down there...:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1055.jpg

Remove plug - here's the old one:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1056.jpg

Applying anti-seize to new plug - careful not too much...
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1057.jpg

This is what I mean by finger tight - don't use a rachet yet - you should be able to seat, then thread the plug in with only the force between thumb & finger on the end of the extension. If the plug can't be hand turned after only a turn or two, then it's NOT threaded right. This worked for all 6 plugs:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1058.jpg

Then, after could turn no more - used ratchet to go 90 degrees (1/4 turn) more. Plug is now tight.

A dab of dielectric grease in the boot of the coil-pack:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1059.jpg

Then of course, reassemble coil pack back into head, tighten back the bolt & snap wire back on. Now on to the Driver's side plugs. You may want to remove some stuff (especially a bracket) first to get to them:

The bracket:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1062.jpg

I also took off PCV return hose beside bracket:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1066.jpg

And then the wire / plug beside that:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1067.jpg

And then the surge-tank hose:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1068.jpg

You may not need to remove all that, but if you do, this is how much room it gives you:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm68/dantes_taco/IMG_1070.jpg

Obviously, then you repeat the sequence of remove coil/plug etc on this side. There are a few tight spots, but the remaining hoses bend, and I used a longer extension to clear the remaining obstructions.

Don't forget to plug everything back in, & put the bracket on. Account for all tools, and that's it!

Hopefully this will help those who haven't done it before. It's much cheaper than at the dealer - UNLESS you cross-thread a plug that is.

Cheers!

Geoff & Sean

freeze
10-04-2009, 10:22 PM
amazing write up!

We're gonna have to add this as a How To Article for sure.... right on!

Cold Flame
10-04-2009, 10:35 PM
Nice write-up; thanks for that.

Because I'm too lazy to go look in my manual, what does Toyota recommend the interval is to change the plugs? I just rounded 70,000km's the other day and don't want to be surprised when I take it in and they do the old, "Your spark plugs are due to be changed; it's only $500 to change em!".. *choke* Are the stock ones platinum or Iridium that only need to be changed every 96,000km's or...?

Thanks in advance!

Jeremy

Dante's Taco
10-04-2009, 10:43 PM
Hi & thanks.

So, my manual states "replace standard spark plugs every 36 months / 48,000 km" This matches what I found in the U.S. websites, where Toy USA says 30,000 miles.

The standard plug in the V6 is copper. The I4 (2.7 L) has the longer-life iridium plugs which go 192,000 km supposedly

cheers

Cold Flame
10-04-2009, 11:00 PM
Awesome... Thanks for that info.

That leads me to wonder; why doesn't Toyota just put the better plugs in all of their vehicles, or is it purely a numbers game? They save a couple dollars per vehicle, and then later get to charge obscene amounts of labour to replace them at earlier intervals? *sighs*

Thanks again Dante.

Cheers,

Jeremy