Questions about Block Lifts

[BJ462Taco]

If i were to install a revtec 3" levelling kit on my 2009 Tacoma, what are the largest size of tires that I can instal on stock rims without causing to many issues. I would like to find some aftermarket black rims, but it is all about money at this point.

[stroM-]

I personally would suggest you stay away from the spacer/block lift. Another cheaper route would be to get yourself some Bilstein 5100's. Up front they are adjustable to 2.5 lift. the rear shocks will not provide any lift, but they will give you better performance than stock shocks. For the rear, check out an AAL (Add A Leaf). This goes between your factory overload and your other 2 main leafs. It will level out your rear and provide a much better ride than a block will. All of this you can buy for around $415 (USD).

With that setup you will be able to run up to a 285 size tire with minor trimming (265 without trimming). If your planning on keeping the stock rims, you might want to look into wheel spacers so that your tires don't rub on your UCA's.

Hope that helps!

[91Runner]

I'm a huge opposer to block lifts, almost daily i see huge built trucks on the road with blocks, and everyday i wonder what the actual purpose of that was? Because you gain 0 off road ability, and if anything.. Lose strength.

I think you'd be much happier with the above post

[freeze]

Jason nailed it for sure.

Yeah blocks aren't ideal unless you're running a track bar to eliminate axle wrap.

[BJ462Taco]

See, this is why I love this website. Expert advise from real owners.... Thanks all.

Two more questions. What is this trimming that you speak of and spacers... how big do I need and what do I expect to pay for that? See I want rims, but I need tires now and could do tires and lift but thinking rims would set me over my budget.

[91Runner]

See, this is why I love this website. Expert advise from real owners.... Thanks all.

Two more questions. What is this trimming that you speak of and spacers... how big do I need and what do I expect to pay for that? See I want rims, but I need tires now and could do tires and lift but thinking rims would set me over my budget.

Trimming; cutting the body away where the tires would rub.

Spacers, you can buy them from most 4x4 places, make sure you get 6lug by 5.5"

They come in sizes usually from 1 to 3 inches, and they just go inbetween your rim and axle.

http://www.zoneoffroad.ca/images/products/wheelspacers.jpg

[keener]

The trimming they're talking about is mostly just the black inner fender. Depending how much offset your rims will have, will depend how much trimming you need to. I ended up having to trim some of the factory fender flare too, but my tires are about 33.5", and my wheels have more offset than stock.

Depending on what kind of rims you're looking for, I think that if you find rims that have about a 1/2" more offset than stock you won't rub on you control arms, and they won't rub fender either. My stock rims with 285/75/17 blizzaks only just kissed the UCAs at full droop, and didn't hit fender at all.

Can anyone confirm that??

[Winch]

Jason nailed it for sure.

Yeah blocks aren't ideal unless you're running a track bar to eliminate axle wrap.

Nathan, I think the OP is refering to Revtech's front coil spacers and not rear blocks, so axle wrap should not be an issue. It was a bit confusing because he said blocks instead of spacers.

[freeze]

Haha. Yeah you're right!...oops

One thing about leveling kits also is you loose your rake so if you're carrying a load you may be sagging pretty good.

[Tacorossa]

I personally would suggest you stay away from the spacer/block lift. Another cheaper route would be to get yourself some Bilstein 5100's. Up front they are adjustable to 2.5 lift. the rear shocks will not provide any lift, but they will give you better performance than stock shocks. For the rear, check out an AAL (Add A Leaf).

I'll second the Billy 5100's as an option. I have been running mine for a year now and they are great. I have them set at 2.5" lift for the front. They ride great and are a good option for an entry level lift at an affordable price.

My mistake was going with 1.5" lift blocks for the rear. They performed fairly well at first, but now that my leafs are ageing, I get more axle wrap that I care for. An AAL or new aftermarket spring pack will be in my very near future.

As for tire sizes, I'm still running my 32's (275/65/18) that I had before the lift. No rubbing issues at all.

For your stock wheels, stroM is correct, 285/70/17 or 285/75/16's (depending on what stock wheel size you have) will fit, but the issue here will be slight rubbing on the Upper Control Arms in the front. A 1/4" spacer will fix this by pushing the wheel further away from the UCA. Alternatively, you can fit a 275 width tire on the stock wheel with no rubbing of the UCA's. Maybe a 275/70/17, or even 275/75/17 with a little more trimming of the fender flares etc.

[squad314]

One more vote for Billys in the front and an AAL in the rear. I originally ran 1.5" lift blocks in the rear but was never comfortable having them in there. I replaced them with an AAL from a local spring shop and now have no axle wrap concerns as well as the real world benefits of an extra leaf. One thing to consider is that when you raise your rear end, the stock shocks will be extended and you will experience top-out more than before. If you are going to replace your rear shocks you may want to consider a little extra travel like Billy 5125's.

Also, have you considered either painting or powdercoating your stock wheels black......Save mucho $$'s and give your ride a fresh look.

[annoyingrob]

Science alert!:

Any block lift you do (a block lift being a spacer between the axle and leaf spring) will increase the amount of torque the axle puts on the springs by orders of magnitude. The moment of inertia acted on the spring is a product of force times distance. As you increase the distance between the axle (where the force is being generated), and the spring (where the force is acting upon), you're multiplying that monent of inertia acting upon the spring. In a stock configuration, the distance from the center of the axle to the bottom of the spring is around 2" (maybe less). If you add a 2" block in there, you've now doubled that distance, doubling the twisting forces on the springs. Add in a taller lift, this effect increases.

While a stock spring may last for years in a stock configuration, by lifting the axle away from the spring, you will decrease the life of the spring substantially. They will become softer much quicker, causing "Axle wrap" where the axle flops forwad and backward on the springs, as well as sag. The extreme circumstance to this is the axle forcing the spring into an S shape.

A block lift will gain you zero increase in suspension travel or ground clearance. All it will succed in doing is pushing the wheels further away from the body. This may be beneficial for some people, as it will allow them to fit a larger tire under there (Although honestly, not THAT much larger), personally I would rather use a hammer and saw to slightly widen the wheel wells instead.

[Winch]

Science alert!:

Any block lift you do (a block lift being a spacer between the axle and leaf spring) will increase the amount of torque the axle puts on the springs by orders of magnitude. The moment of inertia acted on the spring is a product of force times distance. As you increase the distance between the axle (where the force is being generated), and the spring (where the force is acting upon), you're multiplying that monent of inertia acting upon the spring. In a stock configuration, the distance from the center of the axle to the bottom of the spring is around 2" (maybe less). If you add a 2" block in there, you've now doubled that distance, doubling the twisting forces on the springs. Add in a taller lift, this effect increases.

While a stock spring may last for years in a stock configuration, by lifting the axle away from the spring, you will decrease the life of the spring substantially. They will become softer much quicker, causing "Axle wrap" where the axle flops forwad and backward on the springs, as well as sag. The extreme circumstance to this is the axle forcing the spring into an S shape.

A block lift will gain you zero increase in suspension travel or ground clearance. All it will succed in doing is pushing the wheels further away from the body. This may be beneficial for some people, as it will allow them to fit a larger tire under there (Although honestly, not THAT much larger), personally I would rather use a hammer and saw to slightly widen the wheel wells instead.

Hmmmm, OK just a couple things. As mentioned before the OP is not talking about rear block lifts, but front coilspacers.

Second, as far as rear blocks go, you are totally correct with how they increase leverage etc, but this can be completely neutralized with a trackbar.

And lastly, blocks used for a body lift don't give much clearance and trimming the fenders would be the alternative, but axle blocks are actually a suspention lift, providing for as much clearance as any other suspention lift would.

[Doc McCoy]

...

And lastly, blocks used for a body lift don't give much clearance and trimming the fenders would be the alternative, but axle blocks are actually a suspention lift, providing for as much clearance as any other suspention lift would.

The blocks lift the springs which in turn lifts the truck ... however, that doesn't gain you any extra travel. Or does it? 'Cause that would be the main difference between a leaf spring suspension lift and a block suspension lift ...

Or am I way off base here?

[Winch]

The blocks lift the springs which in turn lifts the truck ... however, that doesn't gain you any extra travel. Or does it? 'Cause that would be the main difference between a leaf spring suspension lift and a block suspension lift ...

Or am I way off base here?

No, you nailed it David. It's just that Rob was saying that "A block lift will gain you zero increase in suspension travel or ground clearance", and I just wanted to point out that while it wouldn't provide for more travel, it certainly provides for more ground clearance, no different than any other high tech, super expensive suspention lift.

And if you have good flexing 63" long leafs, you don't really need any extra travel any ways. *wink* :)

[annoyingrob]

My point about not giving you any ground clearance is that the lowest part of your truck, the axles, are still where they were before.

You're completely right that a track bar will eliminate the forces on the springs, but if people are wanting to do a block lift rather than something else like longer springs/shackles, do you think that they would go through th eeffort of fabricating a track bar for the axle?

[canadian bum]

My point about not giving you any ground clearance is that the lowest part of your truck, the axles, are still where they were before.

You're completely right that a track bar will eliminate the forces on the springs, but if people are wanting to do a block lift rather than something else like longer springs/shackles, do you think that they would go through th eeffort of fabricating a track bar for the axle?

No matter what suspension lift you use the axle height will be the same, until you add the larger rubber. Also Gary's set up is a long flexy leaf with trac bar and lift blocks in the rear and it seems to work very well. However like mentioned before without the trac bar lift blocks can cause serious axle wrap.